Tourists head to king’s country

Ken Hoppen

October 2009 Issue

So what does the Kingdom of Tonga have that other similarly placed South Pacific countries don’t? Apart from the obvious answer that they still have a ruling monarch, the answer to this question for a growing number of tourists lies out to sea.
In Tonga, you are allowed to swim with the many humpback whales that congregate in their waters during the winter months.
One of only two places in the world where this happens, (the other is the Dominican Republic in the Atlantic Ocean), this amazing experience brings these massive and beautiful creatures face to face with anyone game enough to stick their head into the water.
Most of these whale trips are done from the Vava’u island group, as hundreds of humpbacks call the waters that surround this small archipelago home over the late winter/early spring months from mid-July to mid-October.
They are here to calve, to mate, and to escape the Antarctic winter that is raging further south.  It takes some nerve to slip quietly into the water when you know a 14-metre long creature is not only in the area, but seeing it is your ultimate aim. The blue of the water as it stretches far below you takes a bit of getting used to as well.
However, all of this is forgotten as the whale swims past. Like something out of a TV documentary, it takes some mental processing to realise that this massive beast is actually there in front of you, and not a product of the box in our living rooms, or of an over-fertile imagination.
Close encounter: Back on the boat, stunned expressions turn to smiles on the faces of the swimmers. You know this encounter is not going to be forgotten by anyone and that all are now converts to the cause of making sure these gentle giants are protected in every way possible.
We do not choose to swim with whales, we only ask for an invitation by placing ourselves in the right position in a polite and calm way. It is their choice to swim with us.
We are just not fast enough or mobile enough to be able to make that decision. And behind every smile is the thought of wanting to get in the water again.
The whales are not the only reason to visit Vava’u. The marine life and diving here is magnificent, as is the prolific seabird activity.
Swallow’s Cave actually contains swifts, but it is big enough for a boat to enter and turn around, and for those that go for a snorkel here at the right time of day, a shaft of light penetrates the dim watery interior in a display that is well worth seeing.
Nearby, the Mariners Cave is a real nerve test. An underwater entrance brings snorkellers into a large cave filled with stalactites and more Tongan history than can be conveyed here. The swim in is within the realms of most, you need to be able to duck-dive down around two metres and in about five, a breath-hold of around thirty seconds maybe.
It is extremely hard the first time though, as the heart begins to pound quicker and the unknown takes a hold on your imagination as you swim into the darkness of the cave.
Upon surfacing, it takes a few seconds only for your eyes to adjust to the dimness, and then you have the wonder of enjoying a cave that the local people have known about for hundreds of years.
Spare a thought for the first person to find it. Without mask or fins, that person was truly brave. The trip out is much easier on the nerves, as you are heading towards lit water and can easily see the surface. This cave is not for all, but I have not met one person that has done it and not been impressed with the experience.
Those who like to dip a rod are catered for here too, with many pelagic and oceanic species on the list, including black and blue marlin, sailfish, giant trevally, dogtooth tuna, wahoo and mahi mahi. Tonga is fast becoming one of the fishing hot-spots of the South Pacific.
When you have, for the moment at least, decided that you need to dry out for a while and hit the land, there is plenty to do on the main island.
From Tongan feasts to wandering the township of Neiafu and partaking in a South Pacific lifestyle, there are many activities to keep you interested.
The pick is probably a guided tour of the island in self-driven go-karts. Choosing either a single seater or a two-seater, participants follow a guide along a deserted dirt track around the island to visit amazing lookouts, bat colonies, and beautiful beaches.
There is a great choice of restaurants in Neiafu and don’t forget there are many small islands that you can go and stay on with beautiful tropical beaches and no crowds!
But for me, the whales will take some beating, and will be the reason I return!