From Weathercoast (Kuma) to Goldridge


Last month, Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands Special Coordinator, Tim George, took time out for a second walk in Solomon Islands, this time along one of the most the difficult walking tracks crossing the mountain ranges of the largest island, Guadalcanal. Here are his impressions of a journey through magnificent countryside meeting resilient and resourceful people who are far from the comforts and services of big towns.


My Companions

I know this is going to be a tough walk from Kuma to Goldridge, and I am pleased to be accompanied by two very fit and capable members of RAMSI, police advisers Victor Tang and Mal Davie. Victor and Mal are both specialist police officers working closely with the Solomon Islands Police Force (SIPF) in a number of areas, including apprehension of wanted persons who pose a high risk, police operations requiring specialist insertion techniques—for example the use of helicopter or boats, extended field operations—and assistance to the SIPF Public Response Team in the event of civil disorder. An important and uniquely Solomon Islands role also carried out by the Group is the destruction of crocodiles, which are a risk to local communities.

We are fortunate to be accompanied by two local guides, Ishmael and Jerom who live in the beautiful Alosolo Village, on the banks of the Kuma River. Both are experienced guides, having crossed the mountain range many times. Despite their slender built, they are strong and display remarkable endurance. Victor, Mal and I marvel their ease of movement and sure-footedness on the myriad of slippery boulders, roots and steep muddy tracks which are the hallmarks of the cross-island track.

The Region

The track from Kuma to Goldridge is one of a handful of walking tracks across the mountains from the Weathercoast to the Guadalcanal Plains. These tracks are used by a small number of hardy souls as an alternative to the only other means of physical communication between the Weathercoast and the rest of Guadalcanal, the long and often difficult trip by boat.

The walk we have decided to take happens to be one of the most difficult. It is strenuous, and involves a number of steep, long, climbs. We prepare for the walk by studying detailed maps of this remote terrain, and read notes on hikes in the Solomon Islands prepared by several intrepid RAMSI advisers a couple of years ago. The notes explain the route we have chosen has numerous river crossings (59), and that the river sections are very demanding as they require rock-hopping over largish boulders.

We know the Weathercoast—referred to by the local people as “tasi mauri” or the live sea, as opposed to the north coast of Guadalcanal, known as “tasi mate” or the dead sea—is legendary for its rough seas and heavy rain. Just down the coast from our start point is the village of Choghiri, where an astonishing 13,452 mm (just over 500 inches) of rain fell in 1972, a provincial record.

We also update ourselves on the Weathercoast area where we are to hike. I have visited it several times before. It is a region that suffered badly during the ethnic tensions. There are still some residual problems from that troubled period, and a small number of fugitives remain in hiding. But overall, peace and stability have returned to a remarkable degree and the people are able to live a normal life, without fear or harassment.

Much work has been done in the area to assist the peace and reconciliation process. The local member of Parliament, Hon David Day Pacha (now also the Minister for Provincial Government and Institutional Strengthening) has made a remarkable contribution, having been the driving force behind a series of local reconciliation ceremonies which took place throughout 2007, and earlier. In December 2007, I was privileged to be invited along with chief guest Deputy Prime Minister Fred Fono, the Premier of Guadalcanal, and a number of other guests to speak at a major reconciliation ceremony at Peochekuri, which was the culmination of the reconciliation process across the South Guadalcanal constituency.

Minister David Day Pacha is active in supporting projects to boost economic activity in the villages along the Weathercoast and the island’s interior. These will not only improve daily lives but also provide the conditions for future peace in the area, consolidating the progress already made through the reconciliation ceremonies. He is particularly keen to see the rehabilitation of the old tractor/walking track from Kuma to Marau, on the eastern tip of Guadalcanal. This would substantially open up the region and provide better access to markets for local products. Later, I discuss these issues with Deputy Prime Minister Fono, who echoes MP Pacha’s comments: There is a need to create greater economic opportunities in post-tensions communities if there is to be lasting reconciliation, peace and security.

Day One

Victor, Mal and I hitch a ride on the regular Friday ‘milk run’ helicopter ride which services the three RAMSI Participating Police Force (PPF)/SIPF police stations on the Weathercoast, Mbabanakira, Isuna and Avu Avu.

After a spectacular ride from Honiara over the mountains, we stop for half-an-hour at Mbambanikera, where several of our fellow PPF passengers have work to do. We meet the senior Solomon Police officer at the post, Acting Detective Sergeant Saxon Sai, who as a man born and bred in the area with more than three years at the post, provides invaluable insights, local experience and language skills to the work of the police in this remote area. He is accompanied by his colleague, Constable Johnson Tautai, who is a long way from his home island of Tikopia but is gaining valuable experience during this short-term placement at the Mbambanikera post. We are also pleased to meet the members of the PPF team—Victor Sangalang from Australia, and Iosefo Manaseitava from Fiji. Iosefo proudly showed me a photo of a splendid dog, one of his charges back home in Fiji, where Iosefo is in charge of the Police Dog Unit.

From Mbabanakira we fly to Kuma, where the helicopter puts us down near the spacious and attractive local school. Victor, Mal and I meet the school principal, Fred, who is surrounded by hundreds of cheering schoolchildren, enjoying this unexpected diversion from their classes. Fred has kindly helped us arrange our guides and introduces us to Jerom.

A short time later we set off on our hike and because it is already mid-day, we are going to have to make up for lost time. Our route for the afternoon is essentially up the Kuma River. While not steep, the river bank is rocky and there are many river crossings, so the going is slow. As we do for the entire hike, we choose each step with care, rarely looking up except to take in the spectacular views.

Just before nightfall, we set up camp in a large cave, which opens out to a spectacular view across the heavily forested river valley. After a quick meal, it is early to bed and we are all fast asleep by 7 pm.

Day Two

From our cave, we head straight up a steep climb for two hours to the top of the Choruchoru pass. Legend has it that the pass was created by a wise man, after a less wise man tried unsuccessfully to dig a channel in the mountain to join the Kuma and Mbalasuna (or Sutakama) rivers. After the tough climb up, followed by another hour and a half demanding climb down the other side, we can only wish that the unwise man had been able to complete his channel! On the pass we meet a group of men walking towards the Weathercoast, the first people we have seen since starting our journey nearly a day earlier.

We enjoy the mountain views, and gaze across at the loftiest peaks in Solomon Islands. Some locals regard Popomanesiau the highest, although our map and guide books give that honour to nearby Makorakomburu, which at 2447 metres has a significant edge over Australia’s highest mountain, the 2228 metre-high Kosciusko.

Minister Pacha later tells me he is hoping to assist a remote mountain community establish facilities to attract more adventurous and hardy tourists. I agree that, while the number of such hikers is small, there is potential to attract more. The magnificent mountain scenery, the rich flora and fauna, and above all the generous hospitality of the village people, with their fascinating customs and way of life, are strong drawcards.

The route eventually comes out at the Sutukama River and for the next five hours we enjoy easier conditions, regularly criss-crossing the river and enjoying a refreshing swim during our late lunch break.

Then it is on to the junction of the Sutakiki and Sutukama Rivers. From near there, after nine hours hiking, we commence a final climb to Nanala village.

The climb lives up to its description in our notes as ‘exhausting’, and we are glad to finally arrive for the night.

We concur with our travel notes—“the remote village of Nanala has spectacular views that could rival many of the best in the world, and frankly, after the excruciating climb to get there, it bloody well ought to!”
Nanala has its origins in tragedy. Back down the mountain, at the junction of the Sutukama and Sutakiki Rivers, was once the village of Valembaibai.

However, when Cyclone Namu struck in 1986, the swollen rivers flooded the village and swept away 38 people. The remaining villagers moved to the mountain-top, and created the village of Nanala.

A RAMSI military patrol was warmly welcomed when it visited Nanala last year, and we are received in a similar fashion by the hospitable and friendly members of this isolated community. After meeting with many villagers, young and old alike, we are escorted to the school building, where space is made available on the verandah for us to set up our sleeping mats. It is 6 pm, and in the classroom next to us a teacher is completing an extra class with a group of young children. We hear the chant of sentences repeated in good English. We are moved by the dedication of both teacher and students, working hard late on a Saturday. It is another example of the thirst for knowledge and learning I often encounter in the villages of Solomon Islands, no matter how far from the bright lights of Honiara.

Day Three

Today is not as long or arduous as yesterday, but we still have a solid six hours of difficult terrain to reach our destination—Goldridge Village. We follow narrow paths along the mountainsides, crossing many wooded bridges and the occasional log bridge, which test our balance. We meet a family group with baby, returning from a shopping trip to Honiara, and now carrying their provisions home up the difficult track.

Victor and Mal continue strongly, showing their considerable endurance. Victor is extraordinarily fit, with a background of hiking and mountaineering in the Himalayas, South America and many other countries. His professional experience, including climbing Mt Fuji with the Japanese Police Special Assault Team, has equipped him well.

Mal is no slouch either, a fit and experienced officer with 20 years in the Queensland Police Service before joining the Australian Federal Police. He is enjoying greatly his time in Solomon Islands, even though, like many RAMSI officers, he is working far from home and misses his young family in Brisbane.

Regular sweeping views over the Guadalcanal Plains and vistas of Iron Bottom Sound tell us our destination is near.

Eventually we emerge from the forest into Goldridge village. It is a dark afternoon, and soft rain is falling. A mauve fluorescent light illuminates a small kiosk and a group of men are playing cards in a nearby pavilion, whiling away an uneventful Sunday afternoon.

We celebrate our arrival with a sticky can of sweet Vimto from the kiosk. We thank and farewell Ishmael and Jerom, who embark straight away on the return walk to the Weathercoast, keen to make good time.