The island of Tikopia, for many people—even many Solomon Islanders—is so far away that it seems like a mythical land; a place like Narnia, that magical land in C. S. Lewis’ classic, The Chronicles of Narnia.

Despite—or maybe because of its remoteness—Tikopia, its people and culture have long fascinated scholars, travellers, and casual observers.

But, unlike Narnia, which can be reached by simply walking into a wardrobe, getting to Tikopia involves a boat trip of at least a week.

The author of this book, Julian Treadaway, is one of those people captured by the allure of Tikopia.

As a result, he has visited the island a number of times in the past two decades. This book is about his experiences, observations, and reflections on Tikopia and the changes that have occurred.

The book begins with a boat journey from Honiara. This is no ordinary journey, but one rich with symbolic significance; taking the author from modern civilisation to a society that seem to cling to another age—a place where the chiefs command respect—where people crawl into houses, where ritual crying is an important part of ceremonies, where houses are built without nails, and where the spirits of the dead are forever present.

To a casual observer, Tikopia may seem to be a ‘pristine’ Polynesian society. It was, indeed, this that attracted world-renowned anthropologist, Raymond Firth, to visit in the 1920s and to write eight volumes about the island, its people, and culture. In this book, Treadaway comments on how many things in Tikopia are the same today as they were when described by Firth and others who wrote about the island in the early 1800s.

But Treadaway also discusses the many things that have changed over the years; with agents of change including not only ‘outsiders’, but also Tikopians who leave the island and return with new ideas and material goods: students, entrepreneurs, church leaders and former public servants.

Christianity, money, and videos have had profound impacts on the society, and Julian writes of the challenges of negotiating between the present and the past and dealing with the forces of globalisation—a story that has resonance elsewhere. Tikopia’s story is complicated by the fact that many Tikopians have settled in other parts of the Solomon Islands, especially Makira, the Russell Islands, and Honiara. Many of the Tikopians born in these places have never been to Tikopia and there are many intermarriages with other Solomon Islanders. The book tells of their quest to be Tikopian while living elsewhere. 

This book is interesting and valuable, not only because of the story it tells, but also because of how it is written. Treadaway is a meticulous observer with an empathetic eye for detail, and writes with an easy style. The only issue I have with the book is that it is sometimes unclear which year the author is writing about. Perhaps this is more a reflection of my lineal perception of time.

I recommend this book to anyone interested in culture and social change. It would also make valuable reading for high schools, or for anyone interested in knowing more about this tiny island perched on the southeastern tip of the Solomon Islands. Although this book will not take you to Narnia, it will definitely inform you about a society that will continue to fascinate many of us.

—By Tarcisius Tara Kabutaulaka
Pacific Islands Development Program
East-West Center